Pack 97 Pinewood Derby
2025 Information and Official Rules
The Pinewood Derby is an optional activity (with very high participation) where Cub Scouts transform blocks of pine wood into miniature race cars powered by gravity. In the process, Scouts practice woodworking, creativity, problem solving, and sportsmanship.
Awards
There are two types of awards at the Derby. Scouts may earn both types of awards.
Speed awards are given to Scouts whose cars post the fastest times on a sloped aluminum track. We will distribute speed awards for:
- First, Second, and Third Place for each den.
- First, Second, and Third place for the pack.
Scouts may earn a speed award at the den level and the pack level.
Design awards are given to Scouts whose cars are built and decorated according to the following categories:
- Best Craftsmanship
- Best Public Service vehicle
- Most Texan
- Most Extreme
- Best Sports Theme
- Most Futuristic
- Best Kid Built
- Best Scout Theme
- Best use of color
- Judges’ Favorite
- Best TV or Movie Theme
- Best Non-Car Design (new for 2024-2025!)
No Scout may receive more than 1 design award.
Returning for 2025 !
The AOL Den will be able to race in the “Outlaw” category. They will be able to design the cars in any way they would like, as long as it does not damage the track. The “Outlaw” category will not be eligible for design prizes nor overall finishing awards. This new category provides our oldest den with one last opportunity to race in the Pinewood Derby.
Outlaw additional considerations:
- No liquids
- 10oz max
- Must still fit in sizing box
Rules
A scout is trustworthy, courteous, and cheerful!
Good sportsmanship and fair play in accordance with the rules is expected. Please take the time to review ALL of the rules. This will help make the experience much more enjoyable. No one wants to create a dispute at check-in or on race day; if you have questions, please ask.
Note to Parents: Parental supervision and guidance are allowed and often necessary at the younger age levels. Remember, though, that this is a learning activity for your child, not a competition between parents. Please let your child’s creativity and ingenuity dictate the car’s design and construction, not your own.
General Rules
- The race is open to all Pack 97 Cub Scouts.
- Each Scout may enter only one car that he or she must build new for this year’s race from an Official Pinewood Derby kit. No cars or parts of cars from any previous year may be used. No store bought cars are allowed.
- Cars must pass inspection and be checked in prior to the beginning of the first race. This is typically performed on the day before the Derby. Once a car has passed inspection and been checked in, only race crew members may touch it. Even if the track is available, no practice or test races are allowed. (Race crew should use old cars to confirm track setup.)
- On Derby Day, only race crew members are permitted in the pit area (around the track and where the cars are stored).
- If a car damages the track or another car, then the race officials will determine if the offending car is disqualified or if it can continue to compete.
- If a car leaves its lane or exits the track in an unexpected manner, the race officials will determine if the offending car is disqualified or can continue to compete.
- Good sportsmanship and behavior is expected at all times. Race officials may ask anyone not following this rule to leave.
- Remember that the focus of this event is not to win at any cost, but for each Scout to DO YOUR BEST!
Physical Dimensions
- All dimensions will be verified by the official templates during check in.
- Maximum length shall not exceed 7.100 inches. This means you cannot add anything protruding from the front or back of the original block of wood (even if decorative).
- Maximum overall width (including wheels and axles) shall not exceed 2.750 (2 3/4) inches.
- Minimum width between wheels shall be 1.750 (1 3/4) inches at the axles.
- Minimum clearance between the bottom of the car body and the base of the wheels shall be 0.375 (3/8) inch. Please be sure to check your car’s clearance at home! It will be very difficult to alter your car during inspection to correct the clearance. Cars that do not meet minimum clearance will not be allowed on the track as they may damage it. You can check clearance by driving your car over a 3/8″ drill bit or a stack of 5 U.S. nickels.
- Maximum height from the bottom of the wheels to the top of the car shall not exceed 3.500 (3 1/2) inches.
- No part of the vehicle may extend beyond the starting gate (a rod in the center of the lane).
Wheels
- Only official Scouts BSA Grand Prix wheels may be used. “BSA PINEWOOD DERBY” is molded on the outside.
- Wheel bearings, bushings, wheel disks, and “hub caps” are prohibited.
- Four wheels must be attached to the car. At least three wheels must touch the racing surface.
- Varnishing or hardening the wheels with a chemical coating or penetrant is prohibited.
- Removing wheel material to reduce weight or surface contact is prohibited. DO NOT: drill holes in the wheels, add grooves or peaks to the wheel surface, shave material from the inside wall of the wheels, or narrow the wheels.
- Wheels may be sanded or carefully shaved with a knife (NOT RESHAPED) to remove molding seams from the tread and other manufacturing flaws. The tread markings must be visible on the outside of the wheel. WHEELS MUST REMAIN FLAT ACROSS THE ENTIRE FACE. Wheels must maintain a flat face width of 0.320 inches minimum around the entire wheel.
Axels may NOT be canted/tilted – they must be straight and level.(Removed 11/20/2023, tilting can be done at your own risk, cars leaving lanes or causing damage to the track or other cars can result in disqualification) - Wheels must maintain a minimum diameter of 1.165 inches (nominal dimensions of BSA wheels are 1.184 inches). All wheels will be verified with precision calipers.
Axles
- Only the Official Boy Scout Grand Prix nails may be used as axles.
- Two nails must align in the front-to-back direction with each other to create one front and one rear axle. Wheel height can be offset to allow 1 wheel to be elevated. (Edited 11/20/2023)
- Free floating washers on the axles are prohibited.
- The car cannot ride on any type of springs or suspension-like device.
- The car must be freewheeling with no starting device or other means of propulsion.
- The distance between the front and rear axles may be changed from that of the standard derby car kit notches.
- Axles must be oriented so that at least three of the four wheels flatly touch the track. During registration, this feature will be checked with the templates.
Lubrication
- Only dry powdered lubricants such as graphite or Teflon may be used. Wet lubricants are prohibited.
- Lubricants must be applied before inspection and may not be reapplied once the car has been checked in.
Decoration
- You may decorate your car with any numbering you wish, but your car will be assigned a separate official number during check in. Typically we write this number on the car in an inconspicuous place with a marker.
- Details such as steering wheel, driver, spoiler, decals, painting, etc. are permissible as long as all size and weight specifications are met.
- Paint and glue must be dry to pass inspection.
Tips
General Tips
Make the car sturdy. There have been several extremely fast cars that have broken and either could not get fixed in the allotted time or, after having been fixed, did not run nearly as fast as before. Plan for your car to hold up through at least 10 races.
Aerodynamics: Although aerodynamics plays a very small role in the speed of cars, every little bit helps. Common designs include a very thin and flat shape or a wedge shape. The front and rear should be rounded.
Ornamentation: Make any ornamentation sturdy. In past events, several cars had pieces break off during competition. Local hobby stores also have a wide variety of decals, stickers, fins, roll bars, engines, etc. The sky is the limit so be as creative as possible.
Weight
Weight is the single biggest factor for having a fast car. For a fast car your weight should be right on the maximum: 5.0 oz. – not over or under.
Placement: Car weight should be placed in the rear so the fore/aft balance point is about 1-1/4″ to 1-1/2” in front of the rear axles. This applies to both long and short wheel base cars. Cars that are heavier in the back start with more potential energy, since the weight is higher up the track. But too much weight in the back can make your car unstable on the flat part of the track.
Types: Local hobby stores and online stores (like MaximumVelocity.com) have a wide variety of sizes and shapes of weights. Here’s a list of weights and the advantages/disadvantages.
Weight Type | Advantages | Disadvantages |
Tungsten | Most dense – takes up less space Allows for precise placement | Expensive Very difficult to reduce weight |
Tungsten putty | Easier to work than tungsten and can be used for finalizing weight | Expensive |
Lead | Second most dense Easy to work with | Gloves must be worn Disposal of excess needs to be controlled Thorough hand washing is required after touching |
Screw-on plates | Inexpensive | Placement is limited and can hinder track clearance |
Decorative weights | Look good and add weight | Weight must be placed according to the design of the car |
Miscellaneous weight: BB’s, buck shot, screws, coins | Readily available around the house Can be glued around the car | Less control on weight placement |
Lubrication
Lubrication is the second biggest factor for a fast car. Lubricate liberally the wheels, axles and the side of the body. A great lubricant is graphite-moly, which can be bought at any local or on-line hobby store. Work the lubricant into the plastic and wood surfaces at places where the moving wheels rub.
Axles
The axles should be free of all burrs, sanded and polished until smooth or mirror-like. This can be accomplished by setting up a power drill in a vise. Remove burrs from the nail and nail head using a fine-toothed file, sand using very fine sandpaper then polish using emery cloth or a polishing compound.
Glue axles: Glue the axles (nails) into the body slots with epoxy or a hot glue gun to keep them from slipping out. (We have had cars in the past where the wheels and axles came off in the middle of a race, which can be pretty embarrassing.)
Wheels
Follow closely the allowable modifications for the wheels. Important aspects for a fast car are having the wheels smooth, flat, and straight. Modifications are limited and no intentional thinning of the tread thickness from the inside is allowed.
Wheel base: (Distance between axles) make it as long as possible but not to exceed overall length that the rules allow. This will improve stability, tracking and speed.
Bad wheels: If you receive a set of wheels with your Pinewood Derby kit that are either off-center, misaligned or out of balance, several places online as well as the Scout shop sell just BSA Wheels and Axles. As noted in the “Wheels” section of the Rules, the only style of wheels allowed has “BSA PINEWOOD DERBY” written on the outside of the wheel.
Alignment: A straight car will run faster than one that pulls to one side. To check alignment, roll the car across a flat surface such as a glass table. Set up the wheels as flat as possible.